Liquor license for Bowdoin Street eatery sparks debate

Pollo Restaurant at 225 Bowdoin St., Dorchester. Seth Daniel photo

A Bowdoin Street restaurant is hoping to be one of several businesses selected to receive a full liquor license in an upcoming second round of awards as part of an official push to expand opportunities in underserved parts of the city, but is getting additional scrutiny this month after residents raised concerns about past public safety problems in the business district.

The expanded permit at Pollo Restaurant was the topic of a lively debate during last Thursday evening’s Greater Bowdoin Geneva Neighborhood Association (GBGNA) meeting. Members of the civic group, which has new bylaws and a new leadership structure, say they have been supportive of other liquor licenses in the area, but have specific concerns with Pollo Centro. The eatery’s owner, Miguel Santana, and members of the Bowdoin Geneva Main Streets touted the license as a way to upgrade the business and help solve the problems that are frustrating neighbors.

Lisa Allen, an attorney representing Santana, said the upgrade from the existing beer and wine license to an all-alcohol license will change the dynamics at the restaurant, located at 225 Bowdoin St. Pollo now operates as a casual dine-in and take-out restaurant during the day and, with an entertainment license, they also use host after-dinner hours events. It currently closes around 11 p.m.

“He’s also looking to make some upgrades to the property and make it more of a sit-down, family-friendly restaurant, where patrons and families can come in and sit down and enjoy a meal with a drink,” she said. “There’s not a lot of all-alcohol liquor license restaurants where patrons can go in the vicinity except one other location (Restaurante Cesaria).”

But immediate abutters, especially on Stonehurst Street, were not in favor of the expanded permit due to issues like improper trash disposal, disruptive patrons, and music on the weekends.

“I have a problem with the liquor license; the problems don’t happen on the main street,” said Mary Miller. “They happen on the side streets or behind the restaurant. I’m afraid of them having a full liquor license.”

Janelle Watty expressed a similar sentiment. “I’m dealing constantly with people coming back and peeing on cars or in the yard,” she said. “The noise is also a thing because they are arguing with each other.”

Veronica Barros, who lives behind Pollo and is the co-president of the civic group, also opposes the upgrade.

“I can tell you my experience being here since Pollo has been in business has not been pleasant,” she said. “They have not shown to be responsible or care about the neighbors…The music is so loud I can hear it in my house at night. If it was a responsible business and they respected us, this could be different. I wouldn’t support them getting anything more than what they have.”

Santana noted that he took over the building when it had been vacant for many years after the sudden closing of Gigi’s Place, which closed down after a series of public safety problems. The former owners shut down the bar around 2007 but retained Gigi’s Liquors farther down on Harvard Street.

Santana said he has been committed to the neighborhood, has improved the building substantially, and has attracted a better-behaved clientele.

“If there’s an opportunity to enhance my business, I think I deserve a shot,” he said. “There has never been a shooting, stabbing, or altercation at my business, and you can check the record…If I’m allowed this opportunity, everything will be better because as others here know it’s hard to make it on beer and wine. When you have liquor you don’t need loud music or the crowds…The people attracted to beer and wine – it doesn’t work financially for a restaurant.”

Tony Barros, co-owner of the nearby Restaurante Cesaria, agreed with Santana and supported his effort for a full license.
“I know how hard it is to operate a full-service restaurant with just beer and wine,” he said. “We almost closed our doors. He’s just looking for an opportunity…When people come to his business, they will come to my business and other businesses here, too.”

Advocates from Main Streets and the Cape Verdean Association of Boston (CVAB) – as well as other business owners – made the case that the business district is safer and more vibrant than it once was.

Paulo DeBarros, the director of CVAB and president of the Main Streets board, said the community blocked a brewery from locating on a nearby block, which he said was a missed opportunity.

“All we have is problems, problems, problems and it’s the same people that block things on Bowdoin and it needs to stop and that’s not the new neighbors,” he said. “We should not be pointing fingers. We should not be trying to stop a business that is trying to thrive economically.”

Bernadette Richardson said she opposes liquor on principle but felt that the negative critique of Santana’s business was unfair. “I don’t understand why because since he’s been there it has been an improvement,” she said.

Davida Andelman, former president of GBGNA, said the key now is to have conversations between all parties quickly. The matter was continued for further discussion. Attorney Allen said their next step would be to apply to the city Licensing Board before the second round deadline in May.

THE NOTEBOOK
• Street calming Phase 2 – A city-led Transportation Action Plan for Bowdoin Geneva will continue this spring, according to Pat Hoey of the Boston Transportation Department (BTD). He pointed out to GBGNA that the city has successfully implemented speed humps throughout the area and is now moving to five raised crosswalks at key locations, three of which will be around the UP Academy and Marshall Community Center. The other two will be on Bowdoin at Olney Street and at Mt. Ida Street. Construction is expected in early 2026.

“We want to try to do this every year and chip away at the action plan,” he said.

• Police matters –C-11 reports the arrest of a “major player” during a mid-morning warrant operation last month at Richfield Street and Barry Road that seized drugs, a firearm, an ammunition. Police used search warrants from Dorchester and Roxbury District Courts for addresses on both streets. … Police recently arrested a man who broke into the Cape Verdean Seventh Day Adventist Church on Hamilton Street twice in one day – nabbing him at night during the second break for the felony charge. The alarm first went off around 8 p.m. and officers found a side door open, and a back window smashed with money gone and some audio-visual equipment left by a fence. Officers had an undercover watch on the property later on when an eyewitness called in another break at the church. Detectives were quick on the scene and the man was also caught on camera. He was arrested.

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