It’s been a Dorchester tradition for a quarter-of-a-century now and last week marked its triumphant return: Men of Boston Cook for Women’s Health, the largest fundraiser of the year to benefit Codman Square Health Center— after a two-year hiatus due to pandemic concerns— once again drew hundreds of people to eat, drink, dance, and network.

Unlike most big “gala” events in Boston, “Men Cook” isn’t laid out in the ballroom of a downtown hotel. It’s held under a lovely tent set up in the parking lot of the health center along Washington Street. The location is a huge part of the event’s charm, since many of the attendees are health center patients, employees, and their families who live within walking distance of the event. Others are neighbors who understand the central role the health center has played in making Codman Square a better place to live and work over the last five decades.

They are joined in the celebration by men and women who might otherwise never set foot in Dorchester, but who are drawn to the event to support a worthy cause. That mix of notable Bostonians is a special one, and it’s probably why Men Cook has had the staying power to survive economic dips and global health emergencies.

Long-time Men of Boston Cook participants were pleased to be back in-person after a two-year COVID-19 virtual hiatus (l-r): Meg Campbell, Moriah Musto, Steve Weymouth, Bill Walczak, Bobby MacEachern, Leoni Harrington, and Mark Harrington. Bill Windeknecht photos

The other constant of the event that has kept it viable and attractive: Local restaurateurs, some of whom are still themselves struggling to regain a pre-Covid foothold, donate time, staff, food, and drinks to the endeavor.

“This year was hard for everyone, especially the restaurants,” says Sandra Cotterell, the CEO and president of the health center. “But they made an effort to come out and support and we were so excited that they came out in full force.”

Some of the eateries are established favorites like Tavolo Ristorante and Ashmont Grill, who were paired with John King, the Dot native and CNN political guru who travels up from Washington every year to attend and serve. Other Dot staples that were on hand last Thursday included Shanti Taste of India, Chill on Park, the Bowery, Lucy’s American Tavern, and Boston Harbor Distillery. Still others, like Sweet Teez Bakery — based in the Commonwealth Kitchen on Quincy Street— are quickly becoming local faves and planting deep roots in the neighborhood. In fact, Sweet Teez’s owner Teresa Maynard is now a member of the board of the health center.

Boston City Council President Ed Flynn, CNN’s John King, and Marc Bonanno, executive chef at Ashmont Grill and Tavolo Ristorante.

Some of the celebrity chefs in the room on Thursday have been mainstays since it started, most notably Mike Wankum, the genial and generous WCVB-TV meteorologist who is now the dean of the region’s TV weather experts. Wankum has been there since the event was cooked up in the 1990s. Last week, he rubbed shoulders with two newbies: Suffolk County DA Kevin Hayden and Boston’s new police commissioner, Michael Cox, who used to live within a few blocks of the party site.

Charlie Baker, another Men Cook veteran, made it a point to be there as part of his final lap as the state’s governor. The proceeds from each year’s event are funneled directly into specialized care, including “navigators,” who track and follow-up to make sure at-risk women get mammograms and related services.

Boston Police Commissioner Michael Cox serves a guest delicious fare offered by one of the many restaurants at the 25th anniversary event last Thursday.

“To have people throughout the evening talk about the good work that goes on here, you really felt the gratitude and appreciation for what community health centers do,” said Cotterell. “To think that it’s still going strong, it was heartfelt. And it felt so good.”